A Dorset Culinary Detour



Other Cuisines

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marga@lacabe.com

Located in southwest England, Dorset is known for its fossil-flecked cliffs and beaches. Seafood, along with local meats and produce, have been the base of its farmhouse cuisine for generations. While the cuisine itself is not particularly distinct from that of England in general, it does have its own specialties. Among them are Dorset knobs, a type of sweet biscuit, Portland lamb, jugg steak and yes, apple cake. That is what I decided to make for this quick detour into Dorset cuisine.

Dorset apple cake


Dorset apple cake


Dorset is known for its juicy apples, so it's no surprise they've found their way into local desserts. Dorset apple cake is such a local specialty, dating at least a century. There are, of course, many different variations. Originally, the cake seems to have been made with whole wheat flour and lard, and it was probably much denser and less sweet that more modern versions. All purpose flour is more common nowadays, as is the use of butter. Some recipes incorporate spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, but these seem to be newer additions. The specific recipe I made is an adaptation of one made by a farmer's wife in Dorset decades ago.

This particular recipe has sour cream instead of eggs, though I'm not sure if that's the author's innovation or the framer's wife. Given the scarcity and cost of eggs right now, I thought it was worth trying. I wasn't able to get the cake as dark as those in the photo.

The author recommends cooking this in a springform pan, but I didn't have one handy and a plain deep cake pan worked well enough - though I had to extend the cooking time significantly - and I ended up taking the cake out of the oven before it was fully baked.

I did like the flavor of the cake quite a bit. It's not overwhelmingly sweet, and with so much fruit it's somewhere between a cake and a bread pudding consistency wise. I'd make it again, but probably use two pans instead of just one.

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Dorset apple cake

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup butter
  • 2 cups whole wheat or all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • pinch of salt
  • 1/2 cup super fine sugar
  • 4 red apples, peeled, cored and diced
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup plain yogurt or sour cream
  • 2 Tbsp raw or Demerara sugar

Directions

Preheat oven to 325°F. Butter an 8"-10" cake pan.

Cut the butter into small cubes and place it in a large mixing bowl. Add the flour. Using your hands, mix the flour and butter until it has the texture of breadcrumbs. Stir in the baking powder and salt. Place the bowl in the refrigerator.

Place the superfine sugar in a different bowl. Add the diced apples and mix well. Remove the batter from the refrigerator. Add the sugared apples and the vanilla extract to it and mix well. Stir in the yogurt.

Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan, make sure it spreads evenly. Smooth the top and sprinkle with raw sugar. Bake for 40-60 minutes, or until golden grown. Insert a toothpick in the middle and make sure it's dry. Rest the cake in the pan for ten minutes before unmolding.


Adapted from Sue Quinn's recipe at Delicious Magazine

Related cuisines I've cooked so far: Anglo-Saxon, Cornish, English, Irish, Elizabethan, Georgian England

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