Pasta alla Gricia
Pasta alla Gricia is said to be an ancient Roman dish, perhaps dating as far as the end of the Roman empire. There is no agreement whether its name refers to the Lazian town of Grisciano, or to immigrants from the Swiss canton of Grigioni who might have brought it to Rome. Regardless, the ingredients are few and very Lazian: pasta, guanciale and Pecorino Romano cheese (plus black pepper).
The pasta is a spruced up version of Cacio e Pepe, adding the extra flavor of guanciale. Add egg to the dish, however, and you get carbonara. Add tomatoes, and you have amatriciana. On its own, however, pasta alla gricia is enough of a heart attack on a plate. Don't eat it if you have high cholesterol or heart problems!.
As the dish is so simple, it's all about the quality of the ingredients and technique. Do use an Italian Pecorino Romano - I compared it to a domestic Romano cheese, and the difference was clear. And do try to get guanciale. The flavor is far more intense and addictive than pancetta or bacon. Of course, if you can't find it (or can't afford it!), either of those will do.
In all, I didn't love the dish, probably because of the pepper. I have to say that black pepper is just not for me - it's not the spiciness I dislike, but the specific flavor. It was also way too heavy - I probably should have discarded some of the rendered fat from the guanciale rather than keep it in the dish. My husband liked it better than I, though he prefers the American version of carbonara I usually make. We'll see whether the same is true of the Roman version once I try t.
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Pasta alla Gricia
Ingredients for 2 servings
- ground black pepper to taste
- 4 oz guanciale, diced
- 5 oz Pecorino Romano, grated
- salt to taste
- 8 oz spaghetti or another pasta
Directions
Place a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the pepper and toast for a minute. Add the guanciale and saute until browned. Turn off heat and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the guanciale onto paper towels. Keep the frying pan on the burner.
Heat a pot of salted water over high heat. Add the spaghetti while it's still cold. Cook until al dente, approximately 10-11 minutes, depending on the pasta.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix together the grated cheese, black pepper to taste and a splash of pasta water.
Once the spaghetti is done, turn off the heat under the pasta bowl, keeping the pot on the burner, and turn heat under the frying pan to medium-low. Pour a cup of pasta water into a jug. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the spaghetti to the frying pan. Add a small splash of pasta water. Mix and toss until you develop a sauce, add an additional splash of pasta water if necessary. Turn off the heat under the frying pan and turn the heat under the pot with pasta water to medium-high.
Place the frying pan with the spaghetti on top of the pot with the pasta water. Add the grated cheese mixture and another splash of pasta water. Stir and toss until you form a creamy cheese sauce, adding more pasta water if necessary. Add the reserved guanciale and serve.
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Adapted from Vicenzo's recipe in YouTube
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