Margarita's Kiowa Culinary Adventure: Aye'gaw'pehn'kee'tso'aye - Braised Buffalo
A Kiowa Culinary Detour



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marga@lacabe.com

The Kiowa are a Great Plains tribe, originally from what is now Montana, they had over the 17th and 18th century migrated to Colorado and then the Southern Plains. They subsisted as a nomadic people into the 1860's, when they were forcibly removed to Oklahoma and Texas by the federal government. Today, there are only about 12,000 Kiowa and their language is practically extinct.

Like other peoples of the plains, the Kiowa relied on hunting buffalo for their survival. They ate the meat and used their hides for teepees, clothing, mocassins and containers. The US government engaged in a campaign to kill all the buffalo to starve the people of the Great Plains and force them into reservations. Only recently, the Kiowa have undertaken a project to restore their buffalo herds.

In addition to buffalo, the Kiowa hunted deer, rabbits and other small game. They collected roots, acorns and berries, as well as other wild plants, and traded for corn, beans and melons with other tribes. Meats were mostly roasted in pits or in open fires or boiled, or preserved by sun drying it, grinding it and mixing with animal fat to create pemmican.

Once the Kiowa were forced into reservations, they were given rations to subsist on: beef and, when available, beans, corn, flour and salt. The food was often low quality and moldy. I have not been able to determine how the Kiowa prepared these rations - but I did find a recipe for fry bread, a common food among Native Americans.

Nowadays, however, Kiowa chefs, as other Native American chefs, are working to bring back and update the foods of their ancestors and they are creating recipes that honor their heritage while making them exciting for modern tastes.

For my quick sojourn into Kiowa cuisine, I made:

Aye'gaw'pehn'kee'tso'aye

Braised Buffalo



Braised Buffalo


This recipe comes from Kiowa chef and caterer Javier Kaulaity. It can be made with buffalo or beef chuck roast - I used the latter because it was both easier to find and much cheaper. Javier recommends serving it with masa polenta and spiced pumpkin.

We were quite happy with the results, the meat was tender and while the flavors of chili and paprika were preponderant, they were not overwhelming. It was only mildly spicy. In all, this was a winner.

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Braised Buffalo

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup cooking oil
  • 4 1/2 lbs bison rib eye roast or beef chuck roast, cut into large chunks
  • salt to taste
  • 1 1/2 onions, chopped
  • 10 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 3 cups beef broth
  • 2 cups water
  • 1/4 cup New Mexico chili powder
  • 2 Tbsp kosher salt
  • 2 Tbsp back peppercorns or ground pepper
  • 2 Tbsp paprika
  • 1 Tbsp ground cumin
  • 1 Tbsp dried oregano
  • 1 Tbsp dried rosemary or 2 sprigs of rosemary

Directions

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Heat the oil in a dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the bison chunks and brown on all side. Season with salt. Remove and set aside. Lower heat to medium and add the onions. Sauté until soft. Stir in the garlic cloves.

Return buffalo to the pan. Add broth and 2 cups of water. Stir in the chili powder, salt, peppercorns, paprika, cumin, oregano and rosemary. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Turn off heat, cover and place Dutch oven in the oven.

Bake for 2 hours or until is fully cooked and pulls apart with a fork. Remove the meat, strain the cooking liquid, and serve the meat with the strained broth.


Adapted from Javier Kaulaity's recipe in the Smithonian Magazine

Related cuisines I've explored so far: Choctaw, Iroquoian

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