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Top Chef Masters

I’ve been enjoying watching Top Chef Masters – in particular this last show, in which the winners of the last six previous episodes competed against each other by making each other’s signature dishes. Part of what I’ve enjoyed is getting to know the chefs, some of whom were completely unknown to me.
I’ve been rooting for Hubert Keller, the chef-owner of Fleur de Lys, a restaurant that I’ve gone to a couple of times. I loved the food last time, though the service and timing left much to be desired. In any case, Hubert is local and seems like a very cool guy, he has these big, puppy dog eyes and gives an aura of happiness. He is also clearly very secure on himself and his cooking, clearly he has mastered both technique and flavor profiles, and yet you don’t ever see him boast. I think he is the true master.
And yet, I was very surprised on how well Rick Bayless has done. I’ve seen some of his shows and I have not been particularly impressed by him. Part of it is that I’m prejudiced about a non-Mexican becoming the voice for Mexican food in America – mostly through his television programs. It seems sort of unfair. It’s difficult to believe that there aren’t Mexican chefs that are just as accomplished. I’m also prejudiced against the true cooking abilities of television chefs. Clearly there are some who are marvelous cooks, such as Jacques Pepin – his techniques are so beautiful and effortless, you know the end result must be great. But others seem too young, too inexperienced to be the experts they proclaim themselves to be. And of course, some are truly grating (Joanne Weir in particular). Until this show, I would have put Bayless in that category. He seems quite arrogant about his knowledge of Mexican cuisine and enunciates too much when he speaks. But seeing him in the last two shows has made me change my mind. For one, I learned that he was in Mexico working on his PhD in Anthropology when he fell in love with cooking. That indicates to me that his primary interest is, or at least was, on the Mexican people – that he wants to know about them (even if through their cuisines) and that he probably does have a respect for Mexican culture that was not apparent to me before. In other words, maybe he is, indeed, paying an homage to Mexican cuisine by bringing it to this country, instead of just stealing it for fame and profit. The other thing that impressed me is that he clearly is a good cook who understands the fundamentals of cuisine. He won by making an Italian dish, after all, something you wouldn’t expect from him.
My suspicion of TV chefs also made me wonder about Michael Chiarello; but I’ve been impressed by his modesty (even though he did say he was going to win the show). Clearly he understands his own limitations (while Keller, for example, doesn’t seem to think he has any).
I was happy to see Anita Lo do so well. I hadn’t heard of her before the show started, but it’s nice to see a minority woman do so well (in particular given this). Her food seems really interesting as well. I think it’s really hard to do fusion food well, it requires an intense knowledge of several cuisines, great technique and creativity, which I think many fusion chefs don’t have. I’d love to go to her restaurant.
I have little opinion of the other two chefs. Suzanne Tracht didn’t seem to have much of a personality. I loved Art Smith’s personality, but I think I may be partial to teddy-bear gay guys.
Anyway, I can’t wait to see what happens. And I’m still rooting for Keller.

Alice Waters and shark fin soup

Alice Waters has gotten into pr trouble by stating that she’d want her last meal to be shark fin soup – apparently unaware that sharks are caught, had their fins cut off and then are thrown back into the sea to die. Now that she knows, she’s changed her mind.
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/detail?entry_id=44654&tsp=1
It seems a bit surprising that she wouldn’t know about the horrible treatment of sharks in the first place, but then again – how much of the food we consume is from animals that have been horribly treated? Sometimes I think the only ethical choice is to be a vegetarian – too bad I don’t like vegetables.

Cooking videogames

I would never have guessed that they have cooking videogames, but apparently there are several out there. The skills they “teach” seem to be quite basic (e.g. how to shake salt into ground beef to make a hamburger), and I wonder how they can be in any way more helpful than watching a food show on TV. But hey, to each its own.

Turtle Swirl Cheesecake

I made this cheesecake for dinner tonight – there was some leftover breadcrumbs and filling so I put them in some ramekins and cooked them with the cheesecake. My kids loved it, which is a pretty good recommendation 🙂 I made a couple of changes from the original recipe and would make slightly less crust next time (as per the recipe below), but I like having extra filling to taste before cutting the whole recipe.
Turtle Swirl Cheesecake
– 8 oz chocolate graham crackers, finely chopped
– 2 Tbsp white sugar
– 1 Tbsp brown sugar
– 5 Tbsp unsalted batter, melted
– 4 8-oz packages of cream cheese
– 1 cup sugar
– 4 eggs
– 2 Tbsp. whipping cream
– 2 1/2 oz dark chocolate, chopped
– 1/2 cup pre-made caramel sauce (store bought or home made)
Instructions
Preheat oven to 350 F
Mix the cookie crumbs with the sugars and melted butter. Grease a 9″ springform pan and cover the bottom and 1″ of the sides with the cookie crumbs. Wrap the outside of the pan with aluminum foil. Place in the refrigerator and refrigerate while you prepare the filling.
Put the cream cheese in the bowl of an electric mixer and mix on high to maximum until the cheese is quite fluffy. Slowly add the sugar and mix until it’s fully incorporated. Add the eggs, one at the time, until fully mixed in.
Prepare the chocolate sauce by bringing the whipping cream to a simmer in a small saucepan, adding the chocolate and cooking, stirring constantly, until it’s all melted.
Remove the pan from the fridge and pour half of the cheese mixture into it. Spoon half of the chocolate sauce onto the cheese. Swirl with a fork. Repeat with half of the caramel sauce. Pour the rest of the cheese mixture into the pan and add the remaining chocolate sauce and caramel sauce. Swirl.
Fill a roasting or lasagna pan with 3/4″ of water and place the springform pan in it. Bake for an hour or until the sides are set. Cool in rack and then place in the fridge and cool for at least 8 hours.
turtle cheesecake

Women of Taste 2009 – Get your tickets

It’s once again time to < href="https://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/61507">order your tickets for the 2009 Women of Taste event. Women of Taste is a fundraiser thrown by Alameda County’s Girls Inc., an organization that helps empower girls.
“Held Saturday, September 26th in the outdoor gardens of the Oakland Museum of California, this unforgettable affair features tastings from over 30 notable restaurants and 20 beverage companies, an extensive silent auction, live entertainment, dancing, and an art exhibit.”
It’s quite cool, you get a tray and a wine glass (yours to keep) and you wander from booth to booth picking up a bite-size appetizer, dessert or taste of wine. I’ve enjoyed it tremendously the two times I’ve gone.
You can read my notes from last year’s event.
I’m not sure if we’ll go this year, I don’t think we can afford it, but I encourage everyone else (who can) to do so.

Cretan Menu Up

I finished this Cretan menu over a month ago, but only now I wrote up the last recipe. Cretan food is very similar to Greek food and it’s, therefore, quite good. Check out the recipes at:
http://www.marga.org/food/int/crete/
As for this week, I will be finishing off Cyprus and hopefully making a dessert from Croatia and another from the Baleares (to finish off those cuisines). One of my friend gave me a South American cookbook, so after that I’d like to move on to Colombia. There are a lot of “C”s I want to cover after that, at least two of them in dinner-party format. It’ll take a while.

New (and old) Restaurant Reviews Up

I’m sorry to say that I have not added restaurant reviews to my website for many months now. I was waiting for Mike to edit them, but I don’t think it’s going to happen any time soon, and some of them are over a year old! So here they are, unedited:
Asmara – typical Ethiopian food on Telegraph Ave.
Bijou – This new French restaurant in Hayward fails miserably in ambiance and food.
Cafe Majestic – I went there for my birthday last year, alas, it seems to have closed before I posted my review 🙁
The fig cafe & winebar – a great lunch spot in Glen Ellen
The Golden Tea Garden is a relatively new tea house in Hayward that has quickly become my favorite.
Highland Dell Lodge Restaurant – Less than successful food at this German/American restaurant.
Pizzaiolo – unusual think-crust pizzas in North Oakland
Skates on the Bay – I loved the atmosphere and burgers at this Berkeley institution.
Soizic – a very nice Californian restaurant near Jack London Sq. has a Michellin star and killer mushrooms.
There are three more reviews from the Vancouver, WA area that are in Mike’s computer so I can’t post now. When they are ready, they’ll be at http://www.marga.org/food/rest/other/
As usual, you can find my restaurant reviews at http://www.marga.org/food/rest/

Still salivation over Pasta with Sausage, Tomatoes, and Mushrooms

This week I’ve been trying to cook with herbs from my garden and today was oregano’s turn. I found this recipe for Pasta with Sausage, Tomatoes, and Mushrooms at epicurious.com and followed the directions pretty closely, though I cut the quantities by 2/3. The results were fantastic, a sauce with a deep, hearty flavor which I even liked more than my regular pasta sauce. It’s supposed to get better if made in advance (as with most stewed dishes), I made it in the morning and served it in the evening.
I’m “copying” the recipe in the modified format:
Pasta with Sausage, Tomatoes, and Mushrooms
Ingredients
– 1 lb mild Italian sausage, loose
– 1 Tbsp. olive oil
– 8 oz sliced button mushrooms
– 1 yellow onion, chopped
– 1 1/2 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano
– 1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped
– 1 garlic cloves, minced
– 1 cup white wine
– 2 cups canned crushed tomatoes
– 3/4 cup canned diced tomatoes
– 1/2 Tbsp. butter
– 1 lb broad noodles
– 1/2 cup Parmesan or Romano cheese, grated.
Cook the sausage in a medium-size sauce pan over medium-high heat until brown, about 15 minutes. Remove the sausage with a slotted spoon and add the olive oil to the drippings. Heat again and add the mushrooms and onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they are both soft, about 15 more minutes. Stir in oregano, garlic and 6 Tbsp. chopped basil, and cook for a couple of minutes. Add the wine, mix well and cook until it’s almost fully absorbed. Add the crushed tomatoes, mix, cover and simmer over low heat for 25 minutes. Add the diced tomatoes and butter, mix and cook for 15 more minutes, stirring frequently. Up to this point you can make in advance.
Cook the pasta according to instructions. Drain.
Heat up the sauce (if you made in advance) and stir in 2 Tbsp. chopped basil and 3 Tbsp. grated cheese. Serve pasta with sauce and additional grated cheese on the side.
Marga’s Best Recipes

Carelessness

I was just thinking that one of the reasons that I like cooking so much is that I am a very careless person. I rarely pay much attention to the world outside me (a horrible trait for a mother), and I’m the opposite of meticulous. That means that I often skim through a recipe, missing ingredients and steps. Indeed, I seldom look at the directions for a recipe before I start cooking (I guess this also means I’m pretty confident in my ability to do anything the recipe would call for). And often I just glance at the ingredients, forgetting to buy one or two. Sometimes I send my husband to buy them (poor buy), others I just improvise or do without.
But cooking is forgiving, often very forgiving. Often times a missing ingredient will not make a huge difference, same thing for a missed step. Forgotten spices can be added later, salt fixes a thousand mistakes.
Baking is not so forgiving, some people insist that it calls for exactitude and sometimes that’s true. But a few weeks ago I made a cheesecake that called for five packages of cream cheese and I forgot one. It was just as good. Still, I enjoy cooking much more than baking.

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